June 10, 2009

Chaco's Gallo Campground Closes for Repairs

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Above: Zuni dancers at Pueblo Bonito, Solstice 2007

Below: Solstice sunrise at Casa Rinconada, June 2008

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Above: Summer camping in Gallo Campground, Chaco Canyon

If you are heading to Chaco for summer solstice, you’ll need to make alternate camping plans. The Gallo campground closes beginning June 15 for about 3 weeks (or more) for repairs to the septic system.

Why now, you ask? Solstice is when many of us head to Chaco for our Chaco fix, and many newbies discover the park. The campground is always full.

I agree - solstice seems a crazy time to do this - but who knows what factors are at play here. It has needed to be fixed for about a year and a half, and the campground has been at less than capacity all that time.

So I’ve included a link to download a pdf of some alternatives for camping, as provided on the park web site - the same ones listed (more or less) for anytime when the campground is full.

Here are the camping options near Chaco Canyon.

You’ll be driving further once you leave the park to cook dinner and get some sleep. And it will take more planning, since you can’t just quickly head back to your campsite to grab some lunch or some forgotten gear. And then there are the 10 to 20 miles of dirt road to drive, whether you come in from the south or the north.

Think of it as an added bonus for your Chaco adventure. You know Chaco is always an adventure, don’t you?

April 22, 2009

Paving the Chaco Road: Two Recent Articles

Chaco Road

The debate goes on regarding the proposed paving of the north road into Chaco Canyon. Leslie Linthicum of the Abuquerque Journal continues to write good, informed articles about the road status, with two new articles posted during February. You can find them at the Protect Chaco Canyon Blog.

Leslie's February 15 article, titled, Pave or No? Chaco Road Fight Costly, is the first of two articles discussing the latest in the fight. She ends it wondering at the nearly $1 million price tag of the proposed paving, and why it is so important to some to pave this road in to Chaco.

I love how she begins the article:

CHACO CANYON — Stand here on a winter's day, and it's easy to ignore the emotional and seemingly unending debate over whether to pave the road that leads into the national park that holds the treasures of Chacoan culture.

It's quiet here. The high desert has put on its tan coat for the winter, and the pre-Puebloan ruins are able to find cover in the landscape. And besides you, there are only a couple of dozen other people in the entire park.

The journey here has taken you off velvety smooth U.S. 550 and onto CR7950, where the pavement ends and turns to dirt 13 miles from the park's entrance.

Whatever your reason for being here, you have now become part of the argument concerning improving this road with something called a chip seal, a technique that produces a smooth surface that looks and drives like pavement.

County officials and the state's Indian Affairs Committee are on the paving side of the argument. Environmental groups and Friends of Chaco and the Chaco Alliance are against paving but in favor of making the road safer with grading, gravel and maintenance.

And then she says:

If you haven't already noticed, the road that leads you here is a critical part of the Chaco experience. It forces you to slow you down and prepare yourself to visit one of the places in the world where ancient history reaches out and grabs you. 

How true! The last 45 to 60 minutes on the road into Chaco allow me to truly Be Present in Chaco when I arrive — essential for the experience I seek, in the usually limited time I have.

Leslie's February 23 article (Why Not Gravel on Dirt Road to Chaco?) continues the discussion. She says it so well; here are some excerpts:

There are all sorts of possible compromises that are better [than paving]. Abandoning the chip seal paving idea for gravel and bar ditches would be the obvious one, combined with actually maintaining the road — something regular travelers on the road have found lacking.

When you stand here on a winter's day with the sun glinting off Fajada Butte, it's not hard to imagine the ancestors of today's Pueblo people farming, grinding, hunting, praying — building a bustling city from nothing. And it's not hard to imagine all that drying up and them moving away — leaving nothing but road ruts and the bones of buildings.

If there is a place in the national park system where it makes sense to limit visitors and continue to offer an experience that is natural and quiet and free from crowds, it is right here.

San Juan County can do that with a road grader and an end to its obsession with paving this road.

UpFront is a daily front-page opinion column. You can reach Leslie at 823-3914 or llinthicum@abqjournal.com. Read all of her columns at ABQJournal.com/upfront.

Leslie indicates that a county report even says that paving would increase driving speed and decrease safety along the road. And she talks about the tourism services in the surrounding area, like motels and restaurants, that would benefit from the increase in visitors. Seem to be some powerful interests at work here.

But the degradation of the Chaco visitor experience is not worth the exchange; not for those of us who love Chaco, and want to see it preserved for future generations.

Let's hope the efforts to preserve Chaco and the missteps by the county keep the road from being paved — ever.

March 20, 2009

Chaco Road: Updated Web Sites

If you are looking for news about the "Don't Pave Chaco Road" efforts, it can now be found at the Chaco Alliance website. Please note that the site address has been changed, so update your bookmark.

Chaco Alliance is the main site to go to for information related to the efforts to prevent the paving of the north road into Chaco Canyon.

The Protect Chaco Canyon Blog is the other informative site (be sure to bookmark this too), updated as needed with articles and news relating to the Chaco Road. Be sure to look around here, as it is a wealth of info, and you can see the progression of events and articles related to the road.

I will be posting soon with info on the latest two articles by Leslie Linthicum of the Abuquerque Journal. If you can't wait, go to the Protect Chaco Canyon Blog to read them.

The efforts to stop the paving of the road have been quite an adventure, going at a snail's pace - onward ho!

January 05, 2009

Chaco Canyon Makes "10 Great Places" List


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[Photo taken from north road into Chaco, December 2007, (c) Christina Solstad]

USA Today includes Chaco Canyon as one of their picks for "10 great places to leave the beauty unspoiled."

I have mixed feelings about the inclusion of Chaco:

  • I'm thrilled the word is getting out about Chaco and its wonders.
  • I'm concerned that visitors will trample the place and it will lose its charm.

The list is compiled by Jonathan Tourtellot, director of the National Geographic Society's Center for Sustainable Destinations, who says about Chaco, "A long, unpaved access road helps keep this archaeologically rich site untrampled."

Yay for the unpaved road. And yes, let's keep Chaco "untrampled."


August 16, 2008

Summer Solstice at Chaco Canyon: A Short Film

While at Chaco Canyon for solstice this June, I met Lillian Kelly, a freelance filmmaker in Albuquerque, New Mexico. She prepared a short film, "Summer Solstice at Chaco Canyon," highlighting the Laguna Pueblo dancers, and G.B. Cornucopia discussing Chaco and solstice.

Her material often appears on New Mexico PBS, KNME.

We were both working with the Friends of Native Cultures, headed by Caroline Brown, who brought the Acoma and Laguna Pueblo dancers to Chaco this summer.

She did a great job of distilling some of the essence of the solstice experience, and providing some of G.B.'s expert commentary.

Thanks Lillian!

Here is the text provided with the Chaco solstice video on YouTube:

There are several places in Chaco Canyon that mark the movement of the sun throughout the year. Casa Rinconada, one of the larger kivas in the Chacoan system, is open to the public just before sunrise during the few days of the summer solstice.

During these days, the longest of the year, the sun shines through a window and into a niche. It's controversial whether this marker was intentional on the part of the Chacoan people, who started building the kiva in 1070.

When the kiva was found by an archaeological team in the 1930s, it was rebuilt. The exact size of the window is not known. Also, there are low walls surrounding the window that indicate the window may not have received light at all when the kiva was originally constructed.

Regardless of the intention on the part of the Chacoans, the canyon is a spectacular place to view the sky, both during the day and at night. There's nothing like faring the 16 miles of dirt road from U.S. 550 and getting far, far, far away from the things of modern man.

Originally broadcast on New Mexico PBS station KNME.

About Christina Solstad


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